It’s a grey, spring day. The clouds are swirling and threatening a downpour. But that doesn’t matter. Because by the time we get down the merciless 400 steps from the top of Malham Cove, we’ll be welcomed by flagstone floors, a roaring fire and a proper Yorkshire pint at the Lister Arms.
It’s a popular pub in the quaint village of Malham – and it’s easy to see why. Its ivy-clad exterior makes it the most welcoming, prominent building in the village, overlooking a well-kept green that upstages pretty much everything else. That is, of course, except for the looming limestone cove that also inhabits Malham (and just so happens to attract hundreds of thousands of visitors annually).
Upon stepping inside, we’re met with a friendly handful of fellow hikers – all sinking local ales as reward for either making it up the arduous steps of the Cove at all, or completing the 5-mile circular route that offers stops at Janet’s Foss, Gordale Scar and the top of the Cove. We’re here for the same, but luckily for us, we’re also staying here tonight, so we’ll be parking our backsides by the fire for the foreseeable. It’d be rude not to.
Everything we could have possibly wanted for was right there. Yorkshire cask ales aplenty, and a solid menu packed full of hearty pub dishes – the fuel we so needed.
Our room was just across the beck in the Lister Barn – a stunning converted barn packed full of Dales character and checkered furnishings for a quintessential stay. It was a short stumble from the main pub venue, well-thought-out with its communal space stocked full of supplies and complete with comfy seating, a wood-burning stove, and most importantly, large, cosy rooms.
It wasn’t just the humans who were pleased with our room, though. Our bouncy black Lab typically accompanies us on our travels, and it’s safe to say she was extra pleased with the warm welcome of a treat plate on arrival to our room. A sweet touch that not only won the pooch over, but made us as dog owners feel at ease. Dog-friendly, not just dog “tolerant”, was key here – a sentiment felt not only in the private seclusion of our room, but in the pub, too, where staff fussed and fawned and even gave her a complimentary sausage for being well-behaved at breakfast.
For dinner, it was back to the pub – which on second entry was just as charming and homey as when we set foot earlier in the afternoon – albeit with a calmer, quieter tone for dinner, the soft evening light amplified by the flicker of the central fireplace. The day trippers had dispersed, leaving a very relaxed bunch of overnighters winding down in the cosy corners of the 18th-century inn.
On the menu, it was the steak and a classic burger that caught our eyes – although it was a pretty crowd-pleasing selection, with the likes of fish and chips, pie, gammon and curry catching the eyes of diners surrounding us. We almost had food envy, until our own dishes arrived. The pub prides itself on its local ethos, going as far as to showcase their suppliers front and centre in the bar area – full transparency on exactly where their produce comes from (spoiler alert: it’s not far at all).
Our verdict? The steak was perfectly cooked – a high-quality cut of fillet cooked medium rare which sliced like butter – while the burger was the perfect, thick patty complete with a delicious relish. A classic, carby meal topped with the most flavourful cheese. Desserts? Not to be missed. The chocolate fondant was as gooey and decadent as you could hope for, while the sticky toffee pudding we’ve found, in general, is a winner at Daniel Thwaites venues.
Feeling full and very well cared for, it was time to retreat to the barn for what felt like a very indulgent way to watch Hell’s Kitchen (in a very comfy bed with a brew – something I never get to do at home).
The Lister Arms is the holy trinity of all you could want from a classic Yorkshire Dales pub: gorgeous rooms, fantastic food and a traditional pub. Its unique location near one of the region’s most famous attractions is a bonus, of course, but if I’m honest, I enjoyed my time at the pub so much, I almost forgot it was there.
The Lister Arms, Malham, Skipton, BD23 4DB. Rooms start at £155 during peak season. Find out more here.
Read more: 7 Of The Best Yorkshire Dales Luxury Hotels
